In the summer of 2010, I with a group of tourists, travelers traveled to Abkhazia "Apsny: palm trees and box-trees." By the time of arrival of the group in Abkhazia route has changed beyond recognition, and he continued to change during the journey. We acted according to his circumstances and happy mood. :) The first day we came to the place of our tent at the parking lot before boarding Musser abandoned village barns, the former once the capital of the Abkhazian pirates visited the ancient temple (presumably the VI century AD) . Ivy and Stone merged together in this building, and support each other in front of the pressure of time. Barn - very atmospheric place ... Hiking in Abmbru was the first test - about a kilometer had to walk along the cliffs steeply into the sea leaving, we were knee-deep, and even waist-deep in the water and the waves breaking against the rocks, doused us spray.
On the second day we went to the mountains on the highway Ritsinsky: the gorge and stormy Bzybi Yupshara with its steep cliffs overhanging the road ... We stopped to taste auadharskogo narzan and climbed the high mountain pastures Pyv Anchho under the pass. After a hearty lunch made for a workout without backpacks sortie into an area called Semizere, for many of our team, it was the first experience of walking through alpine meadows. Up to seven lakes we have never reached, but the impression of unearthly beauty and so we had plenty!
Returned to the parking lot at sunset.
Third Day - a baptism of fire for those of us who have not been in the mountains, quite a difficult climb to the pass - on the ridge Bagri Yashta (topically. Bagrat Yashta) and descend through alpine meadows and fields of blooming rhododendron bush to the lake, where there is a farce wise shepherd Solomon.
Solomon raised in these parts since childhood, in the lake at the booth, he learned to swim, the three months of the year he spent in these mountains ...
Solomon met us in Gorsky - polenta Meat, cheese and goat meat. At its booth live amazing, very original people: Nicholas and Andrew, nicknamed "Prapor." Nicholas did not find a place for himself in his native Leningrad, and in the late 80s came to Abkhazia in search of a better life, and since then herding goats along with Solomon. Andrew thin restless Abkhaz, fought throughout the war, all the time on the front lines. Andrew always a little crazy, with a strange sense of humor, but like all the inhabitants of the shed is a very kind and welcoming. On the fourth day we rested until lunch and then went to the adventure, we proposed Solomon. We went to seltzer, as derived from one of the tributaries of the river. Pshitsa. This year we were the first who went there, but because the trail was overgrown with thorn bushes and we had to go without a trail on a steep slope, clinging to the grass and bushes. In a clearing in narzan surprise awaited us - 4 chamois came to drink. One of them shot Solomon, and in the evening we were treated to the meat of game. The fifth day - one more test, the descent into Pskhu. We have made friends with Solomon, Nicholas and Andrew, and it was hard to leave.
The short climb to the alpine meadows, with the first meeting of the Russian shepherd from the village Pskhu Nicholas Golovko. Our first honey from the village Pskhu. Pskhu - a real Russian village in the heart of Abkhazia. The only street in length almost 5 kilometers Orthodox little church, wood and adobe houses. And the Russian people - with blue eyes and brown hair.
After shed Golovko long descent through the field and lapuhov Hogweed height taller than a man, and the forest of giant beech, hornbeam and chestnut trees.
They stopped at the house of Nicholas Pluzhnikova Cossack and his wife Oksana. They live on a farm Rikza two kilometers from the village, in a small forest clearing. Their daughter - beautiful forest fairy ... and maybe chertyata.
Nicholas is striking in its thoroughness, he man-mountain, it has a strong economy, speaks slowly and everything he has done well, soundly ... The next, sixth day fished, went to the waterfall, wild cherries overeat bought honey and reached Pskhu.
To stay in the center of the village, near the unfinished hotel, a local woman offered us milk bottle and a couple dozen eggs. Lovely dinner, the milk from Pskhu, bread and honey from Nicholas Golovko, mountain cheese, donated by Solomon. Seventh day - we go to the dolmen, a fried breakfast and depart to civilization. Flying on for maize - it's like a minibus with a driver Caucasians only by air.Breathtaking ... Bathing in hot spring kyndygskom, Sukhum evening, restaurant, comfortable soft bed ... civilization! The eighth day - a trip to Huapi, rock Abkhazian village. Here people live freely, work on yourself. Ride and UAZ Soviet Lada production. Here lives eristavis Basil, the only master who makes the Abkhaz national musical instruments. Nedoehav to Basil zazvat us to himself "on a mug of yoghurt" Denis, a young Abkhazian coming for the summer to his mother from Moscow. Moscow has not spoiled him, "cannikin matsoni" grew into a feast with wine, cheese, bread and adzhika ... Vasily we came already drunk. Basil was too drunk, and tools he gave the children, so we went to rechke - a rocky canyon with waterfall, covered with boxwood and moss. After the meal to swim under the waterfall was just magical! The feeling in the gorge - "The Lord of the Rings."
Ninth Day - the last day of the trip, in the morning we boarded the UAZ and drove along the mountain village of primer Garp and further into Otkhara. In Otkhara we visited the huge and powerful dolmen with cromlechs (stone circles like Stonehenge in only smaller), then drove to the trout farm, returned to Musser. Sun, sand beach, the shadow of secular pines, grilled trout on a fire and cooked in a pot of coffee ... Paradise!
