This - Pitcairn Islands
And this is - breadfruit. To taste the baked breadfruit remind me yesterday warmed mashed potatoes or hot bread crumb propechёnnogo bad, and if they fry in deep fat like french fries, you get a taste of yesterday, but hot "potato" fries. I immediately found no mention of the fact that the breadfruit require some care - shoot down a stick so eat. No other crops such person does not provide a huge amount of carbohydrates with a completely insignificant efforts. The coolest thing! Russell 3,500 years ago from Asia to Oceania, people are faced with him in Guinea and even abandoned rice cultivation (probably at this moment turned from Asians and Polynesians Papuans). In many places in Oceania breadfruit so far - the main side dish (as in China, we have rice or potatoes), and displaced globalized potatoes and pasta very slowly About indicate ripeness latex beads, stood on its peel, writes about skabrёznost breadfruit Russian Wikipedia British first learned about the tree of the traveler and the pirate William Dampier (the one who opened the water on the island of Ascension (!!!!)). Dampier died in 1715, and in 1787 the influential English botanist Joseph Banks, converges to it in 1768-1771 with Captain Cook in HMS Endeavour expedition to the islands of the South Pacific (Tahiti where he saw breadfruit), manages to lobby for the expedition of the Royal Society [Development of knowledge about nature] and British Navy to transport breadfruit from Tahiti to the West Indies - it had to resolve the issue with the power of slaves, who were the driving belt sugar-colonial economy in the Caribbean
To buy a small expedition ship Bethia, supply pots and greenhouses, renamed HMS Bounty in December 1787 with a crew of 46 men under the command of Captain Bligh sent from Spiheda (~ Portsmouth, UK) in Tahiti. Bligh wanted to go to Tahiti rounded South America through the Drake Passage, but because of the storms that did not stop for a month, gave up and turned the ship to the east, towards the Cape of Good Hope, and beating the south Africa, Tahiti reached across the Indian Ocean
After 10 months at sea on 26 October 1788, Bounty reaches Tahiti, where he remained as much as 5 months: to wait for the season, when the meat tree seedlings can take that could successfully survive the transition from Polynesia to the Caribbean. On April 5, 1789 Bounty sailed from Tahiti with a cargo of 1,000 seedlings In the first, the sailors in the British Navy at that time were serfs: accidentally fell on the fleet and forced, to work for peanuts, could not return home for years and do not go ashore for months, corporal punishment for minor and major infractions of the gallows were common; first, second, Captain Bligh during parking for 5 months let the team live on the coast and in-third, in Tahiti at that time was free love; the climate was a paradise, as it is now; easily accessible food grew on trees and swim in the sea; local white people respected. Some sailors from Tahitian formed family, but everything got such a quality of life that people of their social origin in England could not dream; in-4th, Captain Bligh loved to bait his team, not excluding assistant Fletcher Christian, so on April 28 when the ship was already in Tonga, 1,300 miles from Tahiti, mutiny - under the command of Captain Bligh Christian with 18 crew members remain faithful to chafing on the seven-meter boat with a minimum of water and food - to certain death: Oceania pretty desolate place, and Rare island at the time had almost always cannibalistic population. This great chelovechische using only the quadrant and hours on the boat could pass 6,700 km to the Dutch colony on Timor, losing just 1 person! HMS Bounty returns and disembarks wishing rebels back to Tahiti (they went out and brought in the 1791 British judge and some executed in 1792-m); the remaining sailors January 15, 1790 are currently a rocky island of Pitcairn (about the size of 1 to 2 miles), where together with friends Polynesian colony base. So no one could leave the island, and that the British could not find the rebels, January 23, 1790 they burn HMS Bounty in Pitcairn Bounty bay for many years and remain cut off from the world by building his own little self-contained civilization
* * * Last 220 years * * *
Today the island area of 4.6 km 2 lives of 48 people, mostly with four names (Christian, Warren, Young, Brown), and they are, almost exclusively, descendants of the mutineers
Our SRV Discovery rises into the harbor Pitcairn - for 221 years the port capable of taking much or whether a large ship, there did not appear. Launch of the armature also does not work: an anchor wedges, and Arthur and Ravid hrenachat unsuccessfully to anchor a sledgehammer
The result of negotiations with Captain Craig island by boat VHF becomes (in English longboat) with local, rapidly approaching us from the Bounty bay. No kidding, this kind - a tourist symbol of Pitcairn, St Basil's Cathedral - Moscow
Bounty bay - the gates of the island - named, of course, in honor of the ship the rebels (burnt remains of the ship - pigs ballast say you can still explore the diving at a depth of 5 meters near the harbor) Despite the fact that the Bounty bay - only place on the island, which can be called the bay, this bay is very conditional. Nothing larger longboat in Bounty bay does not fit
- To your health!
Discovery docked with longboat'a looks like a natural boarding
© Capt Craig Markowski
Brenda - immigration officer. At this stage of her job is to drag a heavy suitcases of tourists from ship to barge
On the barge still do not know, and sternly at each other silent. I now know, the dude with the inscription Brick T-shirt - Steve, a local tycoon (operates the only shop on the island, has a cafe and a single bar on the island, it is the only passenger car on the island, and indeed he rusher) and dentist. Dude on the right, a T-shirt Wut-A-Way, - Mike, Mayor Adamstown
Rare case: on the roads in Pitcairn is already another boat (Google, yum-yum: On Verra, Portland, Oregon)
Enter into Bounty Bay - on the pier many quad (ATV - the main means of transportation on the island), and found almost no: they are with us on the boat. While meeting a severely silent, pretending they do not greeters at all, but will rejoice and welcome us to go on shore road to the left of the barn goes up in the only city / village Islands - Adamstown. This uphill has one of the coolest place names in the world - Hill Of Difficulty
In modern French Polynesia travel agency (on popular islands such as Moorea or Bora Bora) or apartments (on the rarely visited archipelagos Gambier, Austral Islands and the Marquis) welcome tourists with wreaths of flowers. Tradition to welcome guests wreaths are not sucked from the finger, but really existed in Polynesia by the time the Europeans arrived. But on Pitcairn is something newly acquired: visit the island and the local almost always go to the island via the OP, there have borrowed this chip
Hotels and restaurants that would work every day (not to mention the mode breakfast lunch and dinner) on Pitcairn not - subsistence farming on the island is still comparable to "turnover", with commodity-money sector. Therefore, tourists live in families and eat - it costs US $ 70 per person per day. Not all families want / like to receive visitors, but wanting a lot. Family standing in line for tourists and rotated in a circle, because tourists - the most important way to earn cash alternative - positions with a salary of between $ 50 and $ 400 a month, financed by the British government - just to support commodity-money relations. More often still, $ 50- $ 150 for a job such as a cleaner in a school or hospital (the position for $ 400, I now can not even remember, probably some government economist) - but nobody, not even the wealthiest residents, do not hesitate to such earnings and try to type of work to the maximum Occur begin to rejoice:
While we fill pitkernskuyu immigration form - like a big! - Tightened travelers with yachts and it's clear who's a real psycho. Alfredo rents an apartment in Italy and in the last 15 years for the second time obplyvaet world around. Alicia, he found himself after one round trip on some American military base and apparently happy
Barkas immediately drawn into the shed to avoid being pitched next storm This place is called Landing [at Bounty Bay]
Landing - photogenic place
Pitcairn - a tropical island, but swim - a big task! Go down to the water can be in three places, Landing - the easiest option, but the water is, of course, the smell of diesel fuel and fuel oil
Local tourists seated on the slopes and dragged to his home
Hill of Difficulty and another 500 meters of the road to the center of Adamstown concreted in 2005. All other roads of the island is still without a solid coating
Fishechki: each plate is signed in the name of the Bounty crew member, from the bottom up from the older to the younger (or vice versa? I do not remember)
Hooray - 5 minutes and came
Our house - in the heart of Adamstown, opposite the main square
Natural insulation Pitcairn in the last 50 years destroyed everything faster: now life resembles an ordinary village in the middle of the country Choose a fucking big television, choose washing machines, cars, compact disc players and electrical tin openers
There are also special features: electricity on the island from a diesel generator, which is to save fuel, is open from 8:00 to 13:00 and 17:00 to 22:00. Wealthy families because of this hold more his small generator, and usually have 2 network: 220V (powered by a common diesel) and 12V battery, which is charged while the generator is running and provide basic needs (light and electronics), when the generator is switched off Therefore switches on each wall two:
And the light bulbs on the ceiling of each double set (energy saving lamps - the must, because the light stands as a cast-iron bridge)
Plate so as gas; bottled gas
On Pitcairn kitchen garden can be found cucumbers, tomatoes, lettuce, carrots, and traditional Polynesian products (fish, mango, breadfruit, papaya, bananas, chicken and wild goats, hundreds of them) somehow lose in local cuisine globalized potatoes and frozen chicken legs and sausages
When Captain Craig caused by marine VHF radio Pitcairn, I imagined the island some radio room in which sits a radio operator on duty, or, at worst, a hereditary communicator, whose home is mate VHF. It turned out that the VHF radio is always on every Pitcairn House: both private and public, so that the coming of the ship at the same time it becomes known throughout the island. More VHF used for general announcements: FM or its channel on the island, of course, there are no wooden souvenirs Pitcairn (left) Upselling tourists solid roads on the island just 500 meters away, a volcanic island, so any ATV or pedestrian clubs raises red fine dust - which is not fails completely lime in any home
"We" in the house is worth lathe for wood, which is cut from the Polynesian souvenirs valuable species: miro, taumanu, and tau
Tourists - the best room, with the Internet! (The island has dvuhmegabitny satellite channel, which is distributed via ADSL families. The traffic is considered, for exceeding the monthly limit is turned off)
Cute touch: tourist information wrapped in palm leaves
Pitcairn - the only country in the world where the border guard comes to you in the place of temporary residence to put a stamp on the entry
While Putin is fighting for the abolition of visas to the United States, and Medvedev - with the European Union, Pitcairn Russians have absolutely visa, even though British colony. We need only a few weeks before the entrance to communicate their passport data "where to" email'om (in my case it was Graham, owner of Pacific Expeditions). Entry fee - $ 35 per person
