My little story I call "The trip to the fjords", because it is due to the fjords we went to Norway, but as it turned out, in addition to the fjords in the country has so much more interesting. I usually do not write reports on travel, do not keep some special card index of the facts, but in this case it's different. Norway - a country in which it is impossible not to fall in love. She did not like anything where I was before (and I've been where). It has architecture and European cities, and unforgettable nature. I fell in love with this country and I want to pay tribute to her, describing his impressions.
It all started in June 2011, I received an unscheduled vacation due to stop production. Amiss came the heat became a decisive factor in choosing a place to rest - is urgently needed to save the brain from melting. Competitors were Finland, Sweden and Switzerland. After reading the reviews, reports and descriptions of routes, it became clear that there is nothing to compare with the Norwegian fjords and the temperature is 20 degrees (above zero). Anxious to leave, but it was not there. All more or less options (you can even fly the next day, but I do not earn as much) began in the range of 2-3 weeks from the date of the request. Prices for different companies were different, and the description of stages cloudy. Quickly and clearly said manager Svea Tour Sergey Olsson, for which he thanks. Individual tour in Norway was offered from July 12 to July 21, ie 10 days. Arrival in Oslo and departure is from the same place. With various adjustments and discussions route managed to bring the cost of travel to an acceptable value. As a result, we received the following route: 1st day: arrival in Oslo, accommodation at the hotel. Recreation and independent study of the city. Although I think it would be possible to tour the same day. 2nd day: city tour. Again free time. 3rd day: Move to Bergen, along the way on a fjord cruise. Accommodation at the hotel. 4th day tour of Bergen and free time to visit the city. 5th day: moving from the city of Bergen Olesyund. Crossing the fjords. Stopping at the hotel. 6th day: moving from Olesyunda in Kristiansyund with a stop at the most beautiful in the world dorogu.Ostanovka in Kristiansyunde 7th day: moving from Kristiansund to the city Balestrand through the famous trail Troll with accommodation on the shores of the fjord in a wooden palace-hotel. 8th day an excursion to the glacier, moving to the deepest Hardangerfjord, stop at a spa hotel on the banks of Eidfjord. 9th day: unhurried perezd in Oslo 10th day: the plane home. The program can be changed, to make it shorter or longer, but we decided that this option is more like us. And so he was quite intense. The technical part is over. The story begins. Departure and arrival went without any problems and misunderstandings. At the airport we were met by a guide who, in fact, we and spent ten days later. 30 minutes - and we are already in Oslo and settle in the hotel. We stayed at the hotel "Europe", not far from the royal palace. For a regular doubles room was quite spacious and roomy.
But for us, in fact it did not matter, because Room for days no one wanted to sit, and Norwegians themselves say: "There is no bad weather, there are bad clothes." umbrellas we stocked up back in Russia, but, fortunately, we are hardly useful. Everywhere on our way we were accompanied by a good weather, but one day when suddenly everything was shrouded in low clouds and fog, which was also in its own way very beautiful. There was even an attempt done swimming in a mountain river, but the river was severely cold. What pleased at the hotel, so it's breakfast - good choice selёdok and cheese, well, in the lobby clock access to the machine with coffee.
On the first day, in spite of all our enthusiasm, were able to reach only area Akerbryugge - a mixture of old industrial plants with a modern design, and then dined in the restaurant Loft. Ate, of course, fish - cod soup and fried flounder. Walked a little in the district, walked along the main street, Karl Ёhansgade, drank coffee and 9pm realized that we needed to go to sleep - Moscow time it was 12 at night, and we got up very early. The second day was more crowded. The tour started at 10 am and lasted until lunch. Obehat managed the entire city in a circle, podehali to the opera, climb on the old fortress and a walk in the park of sculptures, later taken back to the center and headed for lunch. More precisely, at our request, we were brought to a seafood restaurant. Frankly, I do not remember the name, but it is right on the waterfront near the wall of the fort. There are several of them in a row and look like port hangars. I must say, the kitchen there was an order of magnitude better than in yesterday's restaurant, and the cost - below.
On the waterfront were fishermen from the sea breeze was blowing, and all around smelled of fish. Fortified, we plotted the island Byugdeo. To my delight, the pier with ships is just 200 meters from the restaurant - after dinner we could hardly crawl, dragging their bellies. Visited the museum on the island of Vikings, and then walked to 7 pm on Folkmuseet - ethnographic village. Here we first otprobovat most popular cheese in Norway - Brown. Then he told us often met in hotels, restaurants and eateries especially in mountainous areas, where many sheep. Departure next day was appointed to the 8.30 that will not be in a hurry and do not be late. Was a 5-hour drive to the city of Flom, where we waited for a cruise on the fjord. The guide had to stop almost every 30 minutes that we could take photos, or just get some fresh air.
Change of scenery was unforgettable, each waiting for the pass new surprises: some clouds descended to the surface of the lake, the dwarf birch trees and moss, the snow-capped mountains, the series of waterfalls. I note that the feelings and impressions sharpened machine on which we traveled. It was a Citroen Picasso with a glass roof, so we felt a fish in an aquarium. 300 km. mountain roads passed unnoticed.
The seats were beautiful: mountain lakes at an altitude of 1000 m above sea level, wonderful beloshёrstye sheep that lay along and on the road, and then were found even in tunnels, the freshest air and sea again waterfalls.
I wanted to stay in each place, vysovvyvat head out of the car and just breathe deeply mountain air. Already on landing on the ship on which we were solely responsible to tour on the fjord, was hungry, but the forces were repairing a small lunch on board.
At the end of the cruise we were waiting on the other side of the fjord. Another 150 miles and we were in Bergen. It was a little late, so supper, we went to sleep.
So morning. Go on a tour. Again tour of the city, stops in beautiful places to photograph, the course of history, a walk through the Hanseatic offices, on the recommendation of free time and that 2 hours is gone. We again provided currently.
Bergen is one of the oldest cities in Norway, so first we go to the museum of the old Bergen, and then go to the observation plaschadka Flёybanan that raises us up to 200 meters. View breath-taking. Bergen lies at a glance, and why the water in the parks all dark green. Back down have themselves through the park. Prisidaem on the benches and photograph the city from different angles. Very impressed with the old sleeping areas of Bergen, with its white houses and thousands of cats that no one blew home: some rubbed on the window on the windowsills, others sat silently at the door, and some scraping paws, trying to knock on the door. My attempts to regret their animals politely rejected, dodging hands and stepping aside. Oh well, we better Vaska and eats everything. While walking around the city, accidentally came upon a Russian store selling goods from Russia. Bought for exotic fried sunflower seeds, dried fish and cakes. By the way, all brought back to Russia) The next day was full of crossings. We left early as well, that would come early. We expect a few ferry through the fjords, which could be a turn and again: we in Norway, and the people here are unhurried and relaxed lifestyle.
Accordingly, we should not be in a hurry and late. At every turn we waited some little valley where I wanted to see, and for the canyon ledge, where he wanted to climb up and over the ledge stone with a beautiful view, etc. etc ..
Here Olesyund city - the capital of the Norwegian art nouveau. Wonderful city with heavy weather, but as I said, we were lucky in that sense. Suppose it was not very warm and quite windy, but it did not rain. If I were asked what it was like Olesyund, then I would say that this little Paris. Very strange to see the northern city with houses decorated with foliage, sculptures, mosaics, as well as awnings. Strange it and so the heat is not enough, and they put the awnings on the windows. Although it's better to be striped awnings than white air conditioner compressor. In Olesyunde we had half a day, which is basically enough. The next day we waited for the move to the city of Kristiansund, through oceanic highway.
The morning began cloudless, but vague and no signs of anything wrong. Beautiful road, beautiful mountains, beautiful fjords, beautiful ferry and now, finally, that for which we were driving here - Oceanic Highway. We moved from island to island, and the right of us stretched a vast ocean.
Next - only America. Waves slowly fought on the bridge supports and protruding rocks, and harsh Norwegian fishermen caught cod directly from bridges. The road has been held back by a different route - through the path of the trolls in Balestrand.
What we priblezhaemsya to the lair of trolls became clear their homes of local residents: one Troll sitting on pollennitse, the other - on the roof, in the third game with a kitten, and can steal it, and maybe even eat. The entrance of the pass guarded by trolls cafe with any type and size.
At an entrance to the pass became obvious why it is called the path of Troll: any normal person does not take into your head to go so expensive that we can not normally pass and reached the 10 meters, maybe all the time that someone had to wait, someone to pass, then somewhere to retreat.
There were some pockets for razezdah, but I did not see any car that would have met in this place. Met either above or below. But we waited at the top of reward: a small lake with crystal clear water and an observation deck overlooking the trail and climb it the machine.
Every inch of the rock strewn with handmade Troll, so we had to climb over the barrier at a dangerous place and build their trolls there. I hope they stand for at least one winter. And best of two.
Prior to Balestrand drove closer to 5 hours. To describe briefly, the hotel where we stayed "Kviknes" was a real wooden palace. What it liked to rest in the German Emperor, the Queen of England and other good people to add is not necessary. The entire staff speaks British English, antique chic lobby with hunting trophies, 15 different tea rooms, a restaurant with views of the fjord, a wooden veranda, shorn lawn, cricket, live music (someone playing the piano) - and the cries of seagulls. Honestly, we did not go out with the hotel. Everything is so perfect it was, in a balanced and balanced, we just sat by the window in some very old, upholstered in English silk chairs, drinking tea and looking at the fjord. Near the same study English grandmother. I almost fell asleep. We were willing to pay for an extra day in this place, swim in the rowing boat, a walk in the mountains, but the number of rooms was not. The only thing we could - is to leave our luggage in the storage room.
The next day visited a real glacier. Not that all but come to the tongue of the glacier, which descended on the available distance. The ice was not cold, blue, big and beautiful. To reach it, we had to sail a boat, then a 15-minute jump on the stones. It was terrible to look at the base of the glacier, where he went to the mountains and covered peaks. It is in these moments feel the power of nature and the futility of man.
In Oslo, arrived late in the evening, or rather the Oslo Airport. Because plane we had early in the morning, then stop at the airport was convenient and efficient: get enough sleep, and at the same time saved by taxi. Long thought which photos appear in the text, and realize that none of them does not convey the atmosphere, the feelings that We had a chance to experience. They look some banal and just taken out of context fragments. Or maybe it's me such a good photographer, I can not convey the atmosphere of what is happening and fotoapparat decided to drown himself better than continue to live with me (at the end of the trip, I dropped it in the water). In general, Norway - is the country that you want to visit and be sure to at least twice. I am willing to travel to Norway every summer though, there would be sponsors. We only had time to visit the fjords and glaciers and a few large cities, and were fishing, skiing and hiking in the mountains. To my shame, I never once bathed, and had ...
