The center of Hong Kong - the standard of the city, striving upwards. It is full of high-rise buildings, clambering up the slope of Victoria Peak. But there is another Hong Kong, in which (almost) no skyscrapers. In some places it even a quiet, green, and a little deserted. Today I'll tell you about it.
Under the cut six seats away from the busy city center, most of which are easy to miss, especially during the first visit. Many people forget that Hong Kong is not only neboskrёbny center. This autonomous territory covers quite a lot of space (in general, that because of this, the British were forced to bring him back to China in 1997). The places we visit are far beyond the bustling heart of the city:
But do not worry - to all of these places are easily accessible by public transport beautiful Hong Kong. (By the way, the map, which is higher than I put in the public domain.) 1. Park on the site of Kowloon Walled City on the site of our first destination, twenty-five years ago, was one of the strangest quarters of the world - The fortified town of Kowloon. It was a huge squat on neutral territory between the Mainland and Hong Kong by the British. A piece of land that is under the contracts has never belonged to the British, but not controlled by the Chinese, it has become a haven for various criminal elements in the postwar period. Here flourished wild squatter locals finish building the top floor in a completely chaotic manner, and by the early 1980s, the area looked like this:
His insides were even more exotic. If you remember one of the first films Van Dam, "Blood Sport", then there is action going on inside Koulunskogo walled city. But now I do not want to write too much about this city (if you want the Varlamov good about it once wrote). The fact is that in 1993, the Hong Kong authorities were settled "city", and in 1994 it was demolished. The British wanted to resolve this problem, before handing control over the territory back to China. Today, this place is a park.
The park is just this size, how were the slums are here. Though their demolished and here is interesting to take a walk, imagining that it was here that are placed only a quarter of a century ago. Strange to feel that I am a fantastic place existed in the same time (when the city was demolished I was already 15 years old).
In the heart of Park City Museum preserved fortress. There is a three-dimensional layout of the former slums, and next to him on the wall is painted in the City section. If you remember, in the post about Hong Kong's street art is one of the best works just pictured this incision.
The museum is in the old fortress of the XIX century, which has existed in the heart of truschёb, and somehow survived (although it may be restored). Inside, in the various rooms shown klaustrafobichnaya everyday life of the city-fortress.
A visit here will take a couple of hours on the road, you can take the metro from the nearest station 20 minute walk. 2. Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery A little further from the center of the New Territories of Hong Kong is an unusual Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery. This is a very strange place, situated on a hill. The monastery is not old, it was founded in 1951 by a teacher Kai Yuet, who moved to Gonkon in in the 1930s. Up the trail goes to the stairs and along it sits a huge number of gold-plated statues.
Each of them represents unikalnuki Buddha form (or a man?) We all have different face, trunk, posture. It is hard to imagine the amount of work that it took to create such a large number of figures. Such a number of different idols reminded me of the world-famous terracotta army of China's first emperor. Total production of all these old took over a decade.
Climbing up to the first landing took me somewhere in half an hour. But this is with stops on the forehand and take pictures. Here is the top of the pagoda and main temple building.
Inside and is most of the statues of Buddha. They are more traditional than those that are depicted along the road to the top. Just a convent more than 12 thousand images of Buddha - that is, even more than promised in the title. Inside the temple, the building kept the mummified body Yueta teacher.
But the trail climbs even higher, and the golden image take a richer look. If this is also the Buddha, it is strange that they are dressed in luxurious clothes.
At the top is even more of a Buddhist Buddha. Or is it the Bodhisattva? I am confused. But obviously a very tough person, according to the swastika. It can be seen in contrast to the Japanese Buddhists in Hong Kong from the swastikas are not going to give up.
Gilded statues continue up the hill, where the path is over.
It offers a good view of the residential areas of the New Territories of Hong Kong. By the way, this place is called the monastery only for effect. No monks here do not live.
To reach the center by metro half an hour. Thank sindzidaisya about this place. 3. Lantau Island and Giant Buddha If you prefer to Buddha was one, but the big, then you here. Lantau Island, it is now the Hong Kong airport. That is to go to somewhere in half an hour. Only you need not go to the airport itself, and the station Tung Chung, the final on the eponymous metro line. From here to the Buddha, you can get by bus or cable car. It seems you can still walk, but it is very Dolo (I have not tried). Note on the cable car on the weekends may be sickly place. This is perhaps the most hyped of the places that I am writing here. But the view from the cabin cableway excellent! It is clearly seen the airport, for example.
At the bottom is visible trail for those wishing to go there on foot. It will be necessary next time to test yourself on these steps.
For an additional fee, you can take into the cabin ropeway with a glass floor. View down is good, but the thrill I could not wait. Shabby, slightly cloudy glass prevented the effect of "you hover over the abyss."
And here is the Buddha himself. This statue - one of the five Buddhas bolshii in China. By the way a perfect replica, it was built in 1993, when 30 kilometers east of here resettled walled city of Kowloon.
Buddha called "Tian Tan Buddha" because the pedestal on which it sits - a copy of the base of the Temple of Heaven in Beijing. The statue is 34 meters tall, and is made up of 202 pieces of bronze, in the sum of it all weighs 250 tons! By the Buddha have to climb the stairs of 268 steps. (That's how many different information in Wikipedia is!)
Buddha surrounded by smaller bronze statues, bringing him gifts. Around a great view of the green rolling hills. Who would have thought that this is Hong Kong? Where skyscrapers that ?!
A huge Buddha sitting in the middle of lotus petals. He has a swastika on his chest standard. Very similar to the Big Buddha in Nara, near Kyoto, Japan.
In addition to the Big Buddha on Lantau there is also a fishing village of Tai O. From Buddha to have to get on the bus (by taxi). Say this village more than three hundred years.
Although not say so at this shed on stilts that are older than twenty years. But Chinese people like to update everything, so that village can be both old and new.
In general, an interesting place, and if you're after a visit to the Buddha there is time and effort worth a look.
A trip to Lantau will take probably a whole day, but if you do not procrastinate and miss the village on stilts, you can probably for the half-day urpavitsya. 4. The trail along the ridge of the Dragon Let's go back to the central island. On it, too, has a calm and peaceful place! One such place - Dragon Trail Ridge near the village of Shek O, on the east of the island. To get there we must go to the metro station Chai Wan (not to be confused with the Wan Chai), and then take a taxi.
The trail winds through the hills, climbing up and going down. Because of this, it got its name. In general, the Chinese grain rice does not feed them, give them a call one or another point of interest in the name of the dragon. More tigers they are popular for this purpose.
But here on the ridge valid cool. View opens in both directions. In the west - beautiful bay, and some kind of settlement is very resort-style (unusual for Hong Kong low-rise buildings).
And to the east - village of Shek O, and its beach. Beauty is! And most importantly around almost no people. You go yourself, as if you were in some wild country, rather than in densely populated Hong Kong.
But it is necessary to bypass a hill and overlooks the Wan Chai (where the metro). There's still a pologaetsya - residential high-rise, one on one.
But we have to go early to Mero! Better go down to the beach that we've seen from above. That's where the beauty of it! Is not New Zealand? ..
I was there in early February, and the weather is such that already can be helped legs. And surfers in costumes, so do already swim.
If you are tired of the hustle and bustle of Central Hong Kong, take a day to walk along the ridge of the Dragon - you will not regret. But then again, it is possible, and for half a day to cope (with the road and piknichkom). 5. Lamma Island "Loew," you say, "that we're on the subway so we go on the subway ?! You said wild places, we will show. It can be somewhere else, where the subway does not go? It is advisable to also to the beach!" - There is such a place. This Lamma Island. It is Nav 5km south-west of the Central, and it is necessary to go on the ferry. Along the way you will sail past the many small uninhabited islands.
Just your ferry will sail next to the famous leaky skyscrapers of Hong Kong (know why they these holes?)
Well, sailed to the coast of Lamma Island. As on Lantau Island, here are a few villages. The ferry will come to one of them. Which it does not matter, because from one side of the island to the other, you can walk for a couple of hours.
Villages with ferries very turistichny - crowded weekend here. You can have a meal, or to buy food for piknichka, but stay long here is not worth it. Along the island are hiking trails, feel free to go on them for a walk.
As promised, the island has a beach, Hong Shin Ye. Here, clear blue water, and a nice light sand. On a hot day it is the swim and lie on the beach. Who knows what's beyond the sea? Which of the world's oceans, it belongs to?
Let's move on. Lamm somewhere 7 km in length. Most of the island is covered with dense tropical vegetation. There are many beautiful bays, but it is unclear how to get it, if you certainly do not have your own yacht. But they are pleasing to the eye even from afar.
Sometimes near the footpath across the gazebo in the traditional style (made of conventional concrete in China). If you brought along a picnic, you can here to drink zahomyachit.
Sooner or later you will come to the village on the other side of the island. Prior to this, you will have a beautiful view on it. In the Gulf of floating numerous rafts of fishermen. Something that reminds Vietnamese Halong Bay.
Going into the second village (Sok Kwu) do not miss the Grotte Kamikaze. Although it is hard to miss, it is right at the trail. Cave is shallow but beautiful because of water on the bottom.
And then it is possible and in the village. Here, as the one to which we sailed a lot of restaurants and tourists.
On Lamma island you can spend from two hours to two days, depending on how you like a quiet beach holiday. Well, OK, two days - it is certainly too much, you do not go for it in Hong Kong came after ... Therefore, I advise you to go to Lamma ... 6. Aberdeen Aberdeen is located on the south side of the Central Islands. That is, on the "reverse" side of the center of Hong Kong. There live about 60 thousand people. Between Aberdeen and the main parts of Hong Kong is Victoria Peak. Metro does not go here, from the penny should go on avtobude or taxi. But on Lamma Island is a quick swim on the ferry.
Aberdeen most of all the places in this post is similar to the way we used to think of Hong Kong: there are many high houses, well and in general it is more a city than the city does not. But here a very large number of all sorts of small ships. If the "main" side Hong solid barges, ships and ferries from Aberdeen's a bunch of cute, hung with tires vessel, as in the photo above.
Vdo shore there comes a beautiful public area, lots of playgrounds, parents walking their children.
For some reason I remember that's the model of traditional Chinese dragon boats. (I told you! They just have to stick to something dragon label.) Such boats were used in the olden days the inhabitants of the delta of the Pearl River, which then flows into the sea nearby. (On the opposite side of the delta is Macau - until 1999, the last European colony in Asia.)
Home Entertainment in Aberdeen, except festivities on the waterfront - is to remove yourself from a private Posudin on pleasure cruise. Prices are about 60-70 HK dollars for a "ride" it's somewhere normal $ 10 in cash.
And yet, Aberdeen - the only place in the entire Hong Kong, where I was able to see the sunset. I flew here many times, and in the second half of the day is always, always the sky is. But it was lucky, and I clearly saw on the horizon red sunset apple. Is not it worth it to make a little detour on the way back to the hotel to Lamma Island?
On my way other than those listed in Aberdeen can be reached on foot, going down from the top of Victoria Peak. But this is not accurate. * * * Do you like other Hong Kong? If you had one day off in order to get out of the center, some of these points, you would go to see? Or no? Stay to walk on different levels of the center? Maybe you have other more favorite places in Hong Kong? Tell.
