Track "Kolyma" or "Road of Bones". Ride the road with the creepiest story

Russian Federation
The "Road of Bones" between Yakutsk and Magadan is perhaps the most beautiful and at the same time terrible thing that I have seen for the entire time of autotravels. 2000 kilometers mainly on a dirt road through impassable taiga, swamps and beautiful mountains in completely deserted places with the harshest climate. How many lives she took during the construction and continues to take so far. Along the way, there are constantly monuments dedicated to the Gulag, the drivers who died on it and the smashed cars. A ride on it is a real test of your strength, endurance and the expansion of the comfort zone.

Source: https://zen.yandex.ru/media/bepowerback/trassa-kolyma-ili-doroga-kostei-prokatilsia-po-doroge-s-samoi-jutkoi-istoriei-5ee8cd5476a61866586096a8
Magadan highway is the largest cemetery in the world ... The road through the gold mining villages, which was built from the 1930s to the 1950s in the most difficult conditions across the permafrost territory through swamps, rivers and mountains by the forces of civilians and prisoners of the GULAG, mainly using manual labor, still preserves the memory of that time. Tens of thousands of people died during work and remained there for centuries due to difficult working conditions, illnesses, colds and lawlessness of overseers, and were buried right there along the road. Now this is the federal highway "Kolyma" P504, along which we rolled, and in both directions, and made this photo report.

It is often written that this is the only federal highway in Russia on which asphalt coverage is completely absent, but this is not true.

The track itself begins not in Yakutsk, but in Nizhny Bestyakh (it is on the other side of the Lena River) and the first 50 kilometers there is very good asphalt, which is slowly being pulled towards Magadan.

And as soon as the asphalt ends, an eerie dust begins, behind which nothing is visible at all - neither the cars in front, nor the oncoming ones.

Asphalt also appears a few kilometers before the villages and ends a few kilometers after it.

It looks pretty funny, but it was done so that the inhabitants of the settlements adjacent to the highway do not suffocate from this terrible dust.

The rest of the track is really 95% unpaved

either sprinkled with a rock.

Which cuts tires like a knife, especially if you start to go above 60 km per hour, so you should not rush and drive especially, you can then spend a lot of time on repairing or changing wheels.

In dry weather, terrible dust reigns on the track, and during the rains and off-seasons, terrible mud, which is not always easy to drive even in an SUV.

The route itself still has the possibility of year-round travel, the fact is that before reaching the village of Khandikha, a bridge was never built across the Aldan River, and there is a ferry crossing in the summer, and a winter road runs in winter. For several months a year, the whole of Kolyma becomes cut off from mainland Russia and it is impossible to get there by land. I paid 1000 rubles for the ferry in each direction.

It looks like the road itself through Khandyga

After Khandyga and Teply Klyuch we meet a turn to the road towards Tiksi

Approximately here, in my opinion, one of the most beautiful sections of the route begins

The mountains...

And along the highway the East Khandyga River ... some kind of fairy tale

The village with a very interesting name - Fork

After it we go to one of the most dangerous places on the track - Black and Yellow clamps
 

For several years this place has been altered by road builders

But an old road is still visible

Another dangerous area is relatively close - the Hare's Loop.

Stunning views from above

and immediately you can see the snow in the valley. It's early July, if anything :)

After him you pass the Rocky stream

And we leave on a picturesque road right to Kubeme

Kubeme is an abandoned village where now there is a gas station and a famous cafe called Cuba, where you can relax, eat and refuel. Also from this place there is a fork to the Starokolymskaya road and the Pole of Cold. We rode there too.

There is a beautiful road from Kubeme to the next settlement

The road goes through the Olchansky pass

Noble beauty at the very top of the pass
 

You will not be able to pass by the city of Ust-Nera, which is located practically in the middle between Yakutsk and Magadan. The spectacle here is sad, I wanted to quickly leave and away

Another ennobled clamp and somewhere here we cross the border of Yakutia and the Magadan region, but there are no signs of this, unfortunately.

One of the first large cities on the territory of the Magadan Region is the abandoned and notorious Kadykchan. We also drove here, there will be a separate post about it.

And then Susuman and Yagodnoye
 

Across the Kolyma River, which gave its name to the entire region, a new bridge and a small section of asphalt a few kilometers before and after it.

And then again the grader

Asphalt appears a hundred kilometers from Magadan

It is difficult to convey in words when you drive for 4 days at a speed of 40-60 kilometers per hour and there is an opportunity to accelerate to 100!

And here we are at the goal - Magadan! The Kolyma track is completed!

And in the following posts I will tell you about the most dangerous places on this route and sights where you definitely need to stay!