How many will now remember that before the collapse of the USSR, Karachay-Cherkessia was only an autonomous region within the Stavropol Territory? It turns out that before its separation, the region known throughout the country for its resorts had even more of them within its borders. Together with Dombai, the Stavropol Territory lost another one - Teberda, with a very peculiar profile. There is no sea, ski slopes, healing waters and mud. But the local air, blown from the peaks by the mountain winds, is considered special and healing, for example, in the treatment of tuberculosis. But today Teberda is a purely local resort, like some Kashin. It seems that the geography of guests here is limited only to neighboring regions. Today it is known more likely as the center of a huge reserve, the territory of which covers the same Dombay and Arkhyz. Here is its main visitor center with a small zoo. This is where tourists usually drop by, on the way to Dombay or back. We, of course, also hooked him, but the main thing that Teberda gave us in the end was the first acquaintance with the Caucasian city. Compact, conveniently located and accustomed to visitors, it does not boggle the imagination with its architecture, but it is full of everyday flavor. About that and the story.
1. The military-Sukhum road runs along the valley of the Teberda river. Today, its main destination is the main tourist center of the KChR, the village of Dombai, which I talked about last time. The villages of Novaya Teberda, Nizhnyaya Teberda, Upper Teberda and the city we are actually examining are strung on this road like beads. For what reasons it was among them that he was awarded the city status, a mystery. In fact, they are all similar to each other and represent an agrarian rural outback.
2. The city administration in the central square, the view of which is in the frame above:
3. The current settlement of Teberda appeared here in 1868, during the construction of the Military-Sukhum road, and received the city status already in 1971. And that one is of the lowest, substandard level: Teberda is part of the Karachaevsky district, and is not even a regional center. The city is more than modest:
4. Lenin here looks like a representative of the northern nomadic peoples:
5. A small landscaped park-square acts as the central square. For some reason, fenced with a fence with gates that close with a latch, which they ask to be sure to lock:
6. Although there is nothing forbidden inside - local mothers with strollers calmly walk:
7. In the park - the "Kavkaz" cinema, which is not used for its intended purpose; memorial stone to Afghan warriors:
8. And the memorial of the Great Patriotic War. Teberda, by the way, was under German occupation for six months:
9. Across the street from the park - a monument to the first border guards who died here in the early years of the formation of Soviet power:
10. A kind of abandoned building with a characteristic roof and a crescent moon. Perhaps it was a prayer house before the construction of a new mosque:
11. Which was erected slightly to the north of the central square:
12. In general, Teberda is stretched in length for almost 10 kilometers along the Military-Sukhum road. This is a natural form of the local settlements located in the valley of a mountain river, sandwiched by spurs on both sides. Most of the city looks like this:
13. Mountain landscapes make Teberda beautiful. Without them, she would be extremely mediocre.
14. Sometimes the city expands to two or three streets parallel to the highway, but no more. Somewhere even two apartment buildings are visible, one of which has a high number of storeys. Who needed to build it here, I don't understand at all.
15. There are enough rich private houses. Without them, in the Caucasus, nowhere:
16. But mostly away from the highway Teberda looks like this. It's poor here.
17. Although poverty here is somewhat different, homely and well-fed, with a rural bias. A warm favorable climate and age-old traditions of private farming allow local people, who have their hands from where they need to grow, to have the necessary minimum, or even more. There is no despair and hopelessness of the Central Russian and northern outback.
18. On the streets there is an incredible amount of all kinds of livestock. Animals are everywhere here:
19. Even shops and cafes go to:
20. For the resort and, apparently, the economic component are responsible for several sanatoriums, quite large and operating. The territory of the "Teberda" tuberculosis sanatorium occupies a large area in the north of the city on both sides of the highway. You pass here, as it were, in the corridor from the fences of the health resort:
21. It is not often possible to see the Soviet inscription in the Latin alphabet, especially in such a wilderness. Only in Tambov I remember a bookstore, and even there it was much less obvious.
22. The second sanatorium, "Narat", pleases with an elegant building, which, apparently, remained from the times of conditional flourishing:
23. Teberda has been trying to develop as a resort since its inception. Moreover, at the initial stage, it was also a popular dacha destination. But unlike the cities of the KMV, located to the north of the Kuban, the places here were much less calm, which greatly interfered with the development of the recreational function. The German occupation of the Great Patriotic War finished off everything, after which the already sluggish development of the resort withered completely. Now, in addition to existing institutions, there are enough abandoned ones:
24. This seemingly children's tuberculosis hospital was:
25. And this is a former rest house. It seems not at all abandoned, but it is heavily running and does not function:
26. The former bus station is also abandoned. And it was done as it was beautifully and thoroughly. And there was a cafe, judging by the collapsed signboard, and some kind of teremok, either with a ticket office, or with some kind of pies:
27. He is from the side of the highway. Now it's just a bus stop. In general, there is a crazy amount of unfinished and abandoned buildings in Karachay-Cherkessia. Even unfinished mosques are found. In contrast to Central Russia, where old huts, abandoned by the owners who have moved, are usually responsible for the devastation, everything here is relatively new, just abandoned at the construction stage. Any regional or national specificity? As if many begin construction projects without being able to calculate their own strengths and capabilities.
28. Not far, away from the highway, there is the most beautiful building of Teberda - the Krymshamkhalov Museum. This Karachai poet and artist built a modern tower here at the dawn of the resort's establishment, back in the 19th century, to receive the creative intelligentsia who were visiting him. Something in the spirit of the high-society resorts of the KMV or the suburbs of St. Petersburg. Now, in addition to local history topics, there is also an exposition dedicated to mountaineering. However, in connection with the covid, everything was closed in 2020.
29. Nearby - Lake Kara-Kel, around which the city park area is laid out. In various sources, it is described as a natural landmark, but in practice, due to the not too well-groomed shores, which are apparently occupied by the locals, it does not look. Considering the beauty that can be seen having driven several kilometers in any direction, this lake pulls only for the role of a reservoir for walking in a residential area.
30. The main thing that may interest guests in Teberda today is the visit-center of the reserve of the same name. Here his administration is located, which controls a gigantic territory that occupies almost 20% of the entire republic. In fact, all the natural objects that we have traveled in a week belong to this reserve. In Teberda itself, visitors are invited to walk around the central estate, where a museum exposition and a zoo are presented. The entrance to the territory is decorated with a sculptural group:
31. Near the entrance - souvenir shops and amazing quality and color cafes. I would never have thought that I would have so much admired catering in the Caucasian outback, where there is not even a toilet, but now I would give a lot to taste the local khychins and lagmans.
32. Here is an observation deck to the valley of the Teberda River:
33. There are as many as two museum pavilions on the territory, a visit to which seems to be included in the ticket price. But we did not go, because there was an hour and a half before closing, it was necessary to take the child to the zoo. This is the stuffed animal of the reserve:
34. Here is a more extensive exposition with elements of local history and mineralogy:
35. The central estate of the reserve is a whole city within a city. It has its own streets with housing for employees, its own weather station, its own monuments:
36. Their shops. Apparently, the reserve once had better times:
37. Finally we reached the enclosure complex. In fact, this is a full-fledged zoo, at the level of an average regional center, such as Ivanovo.
38. For 50 rubles you can buy a bag of vegetables and treat them to animals. Although the bear looks sad, he caught apples on the fly perfectly:
39. And this is not a random tailed hanger, but a full-fledged wild forest cat, on the other side of the cage:
40. The surrounding landscapes give this zoo one hundred handicap points. It is located far away, of course, but if you drive by with your children, come in, you will not regret it.
41. At the exit from Teberda in the direction of Dombai there is such a sculptural group. The territory of the reserve begins from this place:
42. When looking from the city in a southerly direction, the snow-capped peaks of Dombai are already visible. An interesting thing is the mountain valley. Almost nothing is visible to the sides, but along it is very far.
43. An interesting feature of Karachay-Cherkessia - all kinds of communications over the rivers are passed in the form of suspension bridges. It turns out nicely:
44. Someone's private fountain with a classic Caucasian eagle. And here some cattle got into the frame:
45. I drove to the remote outskirts of the city. Here it would seem one devastation, there are not even used houses. And still the cow is grazing:
46. I was looking for one object here, but again I was fascinated by the landscapes:
47. I was already desperate to find this place, turning back, but at the last moment my wife noticed him. This gloomy, half-forgotten monument is a reminder of the war much stronger than the classic memorial with an eternal flame in the central square. At the end of 1942, leaving Teberda, the Nazis killed in this place the children and their workers who were being treated in the local sanatoriums:
Frankly speaking, Teberda is difficult to perceive as a city worth visiting by tourists. Anyway, Teberda is difficult to perceive as a city. Nevertheless, the visitor center of the reserve is worth a visit. It is worth having a snack at the local cafe. It is worth at least getting out of the car for a breath of healing air. Well, it was quite informative to walk and ride around the city for an hour. Still, there is enough Caucasian flavor, which is not present in the resort Dombai and Arkhyz and in essentially the southern Russian Cherkessk, where we also later visited. Here - horses walk the streets, bearded men ride "Priors", women in black dry carpets, mountains overhang from all sides. It was interesting. After getting to know the city, we return to nature. Next time - the beauty of the environs of Dombai, Teberda and Karachaevsk.