This name came across to me many times over the thirty years of my life in Moscow. And, if I always remembered about Torzhok, I only remembered about Gorokhovets, to see another nice photo from those places. As now with me and Nerekhta.
Moreover, she confused Gorokhovets with Gorodets.
Last year I almost got together. But, having arrived in Vladimir (and Gorokhovets refers specifically to this province), I discovered that buses run very rarely, and it is difficult to turn around one day. And from Nizhny it will be more convenient. In addition, I wanted to go to Nizhny for a long time. So I decided to rush to Gorokhovets for the golden autumn! And then the problem arises - how to catch the day when autumn is the most - the most! Well, so that the leaves are still on the trees, and at the same time all are yellow. Life experience asserted that it was necessary to go closer to the tenth of October. But the hotel in which I wanted to live was busy for the desired dates. In addition, I did not plan to go for the weekend, but from Thursday to Friday. So that even weekdays, there are few tourists, but the mood is almost a weekend) Therefore, the dates were selected based on the availability of rooms in the Ershov House. For me, after all, the hotel is the cherry on the cake! And not just a bed for spending the night or, as they say, "throw bones." I care about individuality, originality. And the Ershov House, like none of the four options, corresponded to my ideas about authenticity.
The Gorokhovets railway station is located outside the city limits. Ten kilometers away. The bus schedule is clearly tied to the schedule of flying Swallows. The puffing groove took me almost to the hotel porch in 15 minutes. After settling in, ten minutes later I hurried to the street - there was a dream autumn! How did I guess!
The embankment was made quite recently. Flashlights, tiles. And the Klyazma is unexpectedly wide here) And the pontoon bridge ... like in Kolomna.
Throw a glance at the city - and there ... Domes, the autumn sun.
Here is one of the main attractions - the Oparin House. Initially, the entrance was from the city side, but then the porch was made from the river side. 17th century. But I will not talk in detail about the Gorokhovets miracles - there is a lot of information on the Internet. And it is interesting to read about this city! In addition, I desperately recommend watching a film from the "On Foot" series by Mikhail Zhebrak. Sincere transmission!
The most distant place from the center that I have planned to visit is Lysaya Gora. I even took a tripod. I thought of standing there at sunset. I rushed to exploration on the first evening. Rather, after lunch. Walk three kilometers. What the place looks like, I had no idea. Three times I asked the locals if I had missed. It turned out to be difficult to miss - there is a huge boulder and a sign by the road.
From the central square of Patolichev (where my chambers are) go up the hill. Many times later I walked that path - to the Nikolsky Monastery.
I have seen landscapes from Bald Mountain on the Internet. I imagined it. But I haven't experienced the feelings that arise there. I felt like Katerina - why don't people fly ?! I wanted to spread my arms and fly over the vastness. To the setting sun Someone also brought a chair. Not otherwise from the Labyrinth Hotel, which is two hundred meters from the observation deck. He played great with me!
So I stood on Bald Mountain for two hours. No tripod. Until sunset. I realized that I’d hardly come on this visit for the second time. Far away.
Before going to bed I went to the bridge. To admire the falling asleep city.
So I can stand on Tolstoy's Kamenka in Suzdal and look at Ilyinskaya. Ten times a day)
I spent a full two days on Gorokhovets. I will say right away - you can see it in 4-5 hours, but to be nourished with grace - at least three days)
In the morning I was awakened by the bright sun. Seven o'clock in the morning. It's time to go to admire the morning fog and the deserted city! The fog had almost cleared over the river. It was necessary to get up early for at least half an hour.
There are only birds in the square. Jackdaws. Well-fed pigeons on the embankment. Yes, a dog that barked at me, a lonely gulen so that I rushed like a bullet to the bridge.
"Morning paints with gentle light" brick houses, to which I have been breathing very unevenly for the last couple of years)) Even in Orekhovo - Zuevo I rolled a couple of times.
And there are a lot of solid wooden huts in Gorokhovets! “Judging by the houses, the people there are good,” an Estonian friend wrote to me on Facebook.
I went along the embankment in the other direction. Silence. Grace.
Perfect picture !!! You can shoot for years. At different times, at different times of the day.
Amazing harmony !!!
And on the opposite bank of the Klyazma there is no housing. Only the Znamensky Convent. I noticed him on the first day. I decided to go to the sisters for homemade cheese.
From this side of the river, the city is like a picture! All in the palm of your hand.
The monastery is not more than a kilometer away. View of the city and the Nikolsky monastery from the roll.
From the monastery and back, some cyclists run about. But at the entrance there is an announcement - they say, brothers and sisters, do not come to us, do not carry the infection. Didn't bother the sisters. I went back. And ahead - the glade is all overflowing with pearls! For half an hour I took off the droplets, dew, and tender cobwebs.
Further in the plans was to visit the bus station for a ticket to Nizhny Novgorod. But first - to see the most replicated view of the city from the observation deck at the Nikolsky Monastery.
Domes all around. Apples rejuvenating on the branches remained for the winter. And we, city people, buy them for crazy rubles (Lovely provincial meetings - conversations.
What a miracle!
On the very first evening, it seemed to me that Gorokhovets was very reminiscent of the Polish Kazimierz Dolny. Below, under the slopes, there are houses. There are lights on the slopes. Iron ladders are everywhere. Oh. hilly town! And there are ski slopes on Puzhalovaya Gora. And the park. Alas, I didn't have enough time for it. Passed by. Licked her lips.
The bus station is not on the track now as it used to be. A little off to the side. Iron container. Next stop. “We don’t sell tickets in advance,” the girl growled at the box office. Well, okay. Buses to Nizhny Novgorod, though passing, are frequent. I'm leaving! But I went back through an unfamiliar part of the city. Along the street of the Besedin brothers. The Klyuchevaya river flows here. Not all maps even have its name. They are going to clean the brook and refine the banks. In this part there are mainly two-storey houses. From the old - the building of the bathhouse. But I, finally, attached a bag of cat food) There was a cat sitting by the river fence. Didn't touch anyone. Dozing. And along the wall, sideways - sideways, a plump Siamese made his way. The award was given to the bold mongrel.
In the evening I went with a tripod to the river. However, I was not given a picturesque sunset. And the city is hardly illuminated. So, I only took a couple of not too sharp shots. In St. Petersburg, nothing happened at all! Either the lens flips, or in the dark the sensor cannot measure the distance to the object correctly. But even with the established infinity - one daub ((
So the time has come to leave. And I just the evening before remembered about the museum of merchant life, which I saw at Zhebrak's. I looked into the courtyard - and so whose turrets I saw from the path! Planned to leave at 12. Museum at 10. Another breakfast would be! Stepan, the cat, would also like a portion of sour cream. Waiting for the cafe to open. Of course, the Izba cafe is an ordinary canteen. But the coffee there is quite decent! And with the price of cutlets with puree in 100 rudders, you don't have to be picky about it. I'll go again - I'll eat there again! )
Ah, the embankment! Warmly. Quiet. Only the leaves from the trees are rustling.
Again to Nikolsky ... I met two girls from Moscow there. We arrived at five in the morning and walked to the city. For a minute, 10 km. Real travelers!
So, the museum has only 40 minutes left (Do not repeat my mistakes)
Real rarities are collected on three floors! Personal belongings of the owners of the house - Ershov and Sapozhnikov. The expositions are made with impeccable taste. Even I, who is indifferent to museums / exhibitions, would like to spend more time here. And maybe next time I'll take a guided tour! But I had enough time to shoot toadstools))
Well, a few words about the town as a whole.
It is located in the Vladimir region. An hour's drive from Nizhny Novgorod. The swallow from Moscow takes three hours. The population is 12 thousand people. Does not produce a feeling of hopelessness, like Rostov or Torzhok. Clean, well maintained. There are shops. The lanterns are on. Sidewalks are present.
Central (one of two) square. With an eternal (not burning for some reason) fire.
On Lenin Street there are merchant houses, the incredible tower House of Prishletsov or "House with Mermaids", the house of the manufacturer Semyonichev. Another magnificent house, the Martha Posadnitsa Museum, was not included in the shot.
The most impressive object for me is Shorin's house! I just got sick with it before the trip. It turned out that it stands right next to the M7 highway. The gate is closed. Ugly pillars interfere. Also, the builders were doing something, and constantly machines and workers were nearby. It would be interesting, nevertheless, to take pictures of it from a tripod during working hours. With the lights of passing cars. Alas, there are many trucks) And the full moon was shining. I scared some lady. She photographed an incredibly beautiful picture. A simple soap box. "And I have a night mode!" - she said proudly)))
I'll put a lazy panorama. For the sake of completeness. Perfect city!