As you know, better than mountains can be only mountains, which was not. More from school geography lessons, I knew that the Urals - is, in fact, the same mountains, although serious for some reason no one refers to them. A map Ural is tempting not far from Moscow, when you consider that the Caucasus, I've seen a little bit. In this post - something for which and mainly was started this trip, and try to convince skeptics that it is worthy of attention Ural traveling. Under the cut - Lake Ridge and Zyuratkul, Taganay National Park, as well as popular among local tourists and lakes Turgoyak Bath (Jakty-kul).
1. The first location in the Urals, where we arrived after almost two thousand kilometers, having examined the road and city Innopolis Yelabuga - Zyuratkul village. Settlement of this difficult. It is located in the eponymous national park at an altitude of 700 meters above sea level. To get here, you need to pass the cordon Reserve and pay something around 200 rubles per person. The last 10 kilometers to the village - a pretty lousy primer, so here just is not hitting. But it's worth it, and even more - here should spend at least a couple of nights, the benefit that the accommodation facilities here enough.
2. First and foremost, of course, the air. After the heat of the Tatar-Bashkir steppes there was a cool - the temperature at night dropped to five, the day did not rise above 25. The very air is rarefied mountain and incredibly clean. Sleep here without exaggeration as killed before 12 hours a day. Just for the sake of the cost of air travel here.
3. But, of course, not a single nice Zyuratkul air. It is considered to be the cleanest place of the Chelyabinsk region, and quite unexpectedly found that the same name picturesque lake located here on business and not a lake at all, but only the reservoir, created after the Second World War. And even more strange, how this place Bashkir name, translated as "Heart Lake", because in fact there was a lake here are not even in the Russian Empire, when the area was colonized by the Russian, and in the midst of the Soviet period. Before there were only swamps.
4. In the lake-reservoir we even swim as far as possible under its invigorating The cold water. The latter has a characteristic brownish tint, because fed from the swamps. Just like the river near St. Petersburg.
5. If you leave a bit of the village, one can find traces of the once popular local attractions - Whale pier. It was a kind of Disneyland, with lots of stylized Novodel facilities, including a pirate ship, castle and a scattering of temples. In all this splendor operated water park, restaurants and other entertainment. In 2012, on the initiative of the national park all that stuff, as a violation of the reserved regime dismantled. Preserved skeletons overgrown separate buildings:
6. But it is not necessary to think that whale wharf sank into oblivion. Its strange name - the last name of a large local businessman whales, which it has created. The man lowered his hands and continued to develop his creation in a different place, where from here transported all that is possible. Now the water park operates in the heart of the nearest town Satka, on the factory pond. About him I'm still sure to tell the next time, in a post about the city. A nature reserve, as they say, after the closure of the pier Whale lost a significant share of visitors.
7. In one aspect, however, whales marina continues to function. This extraordinary house behind a high fence. Through the cracks it can be seen that the residence territory has the most well-recognized style - wooden carvings, temples and various styling reminiscent not of Yoshkar-Ola, not Kozelskiy Vihlyandiyu. Nowhere else about this house is not a word, but I'm almost sure it's something like a summer residence of the former owner of Whale's Wharf. Obviously, he did not attack the personal residence of an important person in the region reserve.
8. The village itself does not look Zyuratkul most picturesque backwater. Asphalt roads there, just gravel road, which is why from passing cars in the air dust hangs forever. Houses uninteresting, a lot of places "under the change."
9. There are only two typical village shop with an assortment of "just a little bit." One of them made a creative sign:
10. At the top of the ridge Zyuratkul, at the foot of which are village and lake eco-paved trail. In all the guidebooks call it an all-season, legkoprohodimoy and requires no training. Seasoned climber or hikers can really think so ...
11. Going from the entrance to the path to the top of about six kilometers. The first three - is paved with planks path through the forest. Here, indeed, even with a pram for a walk. In the distance, through a gap in the trees, the mountain is visible. We somehow weak in this hard to believe, but in the end we have got it.
12. In the meantime, it is convenient, comfortable, beautiful. Around the trees, the same clean air, close all along babbling brook with clear water.
13. At some point, though, the road begins to climb with a barely noticeable slope, which every step is getting steeper. But the beauty of this road - motivation. To get to the start of its not so simple - you need a car, the time, the congestion charge, primer. Then, when already passed half way, it seems that a slight slope - this is nonsense. This path has done, do not turn back! But rates are rising ...
14. Southern Urals is often attributed to the role of one of the oldest inhabited places in the world people. The most famous object from this theory - an arch, where we have not reached. But in Zyuratkul neighborhood is all sorts of sites of ancient men, and recently did right on the eco-trail, on which we move, found the giant geoglyphs in the form of an elk. Because of its size it can be seen only from the air. I do not know, how can you believe in the plausibility of that particular finding. Still, the climate in the Urals (even in the south) can not be called mild, but for ancient man, it seems to me, this was the deciding factor.
15. Kilometer four flooring ends and begins normal paths, places with the thaw. Wood also suddenly interrupted - we find ourselves on the subalpine meadow. Let there meadow grasses as tall as a man's height, the trees still gone, and the sun was hot. But the mountain all as far.
16. But what really drives up the price rise, when in front of you stands a fairly steep slope, completely studded with large boulders. The so-called kurumnik or river stone. Climbing is offered just for them. Well done, behind already more than four kilometers, and people are coming down to meet them, not like the steep mountain climbers - the same as we are, in jeans, T-shirts and with conventional backpacks.
17. However, the slope becomes steeper, the rocks swaying beneath their feet, and good views are already here. Already have to climb on all fours. By adopting this unexpected challenge, encouraging each other, and sometimes acting is already "on the weak", we got the same to the flat top of the clearing. What was our outrage when there we were greeted by romping boys, teens, families with picnics and children of preschool age and a crowd of other people. Here is what we feel on the skin accustomed to the difference between comfort and sport Chelyabinsk Muscovites, who overcame the kurumnik like joking.
18. On top of the ridge, suddenly realize how far stopped. Around the panoramic views of the endless taiga, and locality within sight of only one - Zyuratkul village, from where we are. Adjacent to the ridge located Zyuratkul Nurgush - highest point Chelyabinsk area (1406 m.). Visually, however, it somehow does not stand out much.
19. I must say, it was to go down a lot easier. Yes, the eco-trail at Zyuratkul really passable, but I think that's still not all-season. Climb the boulders this should be simply dangerous in near-zero temperature. Well, it is necessary to understand, of course, that it's still a mountain, and some minimal readiness, at least in the form of comfortable clothes and a bottle of water with you, it should be.
20. A must place to visit for travelers in the Urals, I believe, it is a hydroelectric power station in the village of thresholds. It is located in the Satka district, about 15 kilometers from a large village Berdyaush. Porozhskaya HPP to its stop in 2017 was considered the oldest operating in the territory of modern Russia.
21. It was built in 1908 in a completely Ural wilderness for production of ferroalloys. Of course, with the development of technology, the company is out of date. Over time, the shop moved here Satka "Magnezit" plant. It was his needs and satisfy GES - exit in the overall power grid Russia, it does not matter.
22. At this point the engine room equipment to the rarity closed and not in use. The prospects for renewal, it seems, no. So what better time to see it. Every year is likely to see growing on the site of the ruins of the HPP different degree of safety.
23. Despite the stop hes like tourist site it is quite popular. In direct proximity to it is built are not cheap hotel with a restaurant, and behind us came another car with tourists.
24. The building of hydroelectric power station built of rubble stone and beautifully itself. Nearby is similar in appearance creator house and the first head of HPP - German Schuppe.
25. The village itself thresholds already small and dull, after stopping HPP, in theory, should wither altogether. The road dead-end, a few kilometers away mining and metallurgical zone of the Chelyabinsk region ends and begins Bashkiria. At this point, however, no less blind.
26. More surprising was to discover in the middle of the village road machinery with a group of workers, Lata primer that led us here. Apparently, now feed the village is tourism, yet he's not fall apart completely.
27. From the Threshold we went to pritosy of Ai. The street was the heat, and unbearably wanted to stock ice cream. Therefore, half-way, we stopped for a rest at a large village Berdyaush. Berdyaush commensurate with other cities and could easily obtain this status - this is a typical railway town.
28. One of the largest of all the stations is located in South Ural historical course Trans. Hence it goes unused for two passenger branch - to the north, in Kusu and Nyazepetrovsk, and to the south, and SATCOM tank. And if the first pro I can not say anything, the short little branch on the SATCOM to be loaded freight train Mama Do not Cry. In fact, the station serves the giant Berdyaush Satkinsky "Magnezit".
29. An awesome and a bit shocking Berdyausha feature is that it is officially live Moscow time. GRT separately the rest of the Chelyabinsk region. Well this is how big is the influence of Railways!
30. Interestingly, the recent transfer of schedules to local time Berdyaushu given the opportunity to live together with all of the Chelyabinsk region? This is me in Yelabuga complained about the inconvenient time zone! Here people adjust - lessons at school, for example, starts at 6 am (though in a nearby village for 8). A dusk begins after lunch. By the way, the cows wandering through the village, you can find both in this photo, and in the previous year.
31. The roads in the Chelyabinsk region have pleased even the local village, which had to travel. By regularity is not very steep slope quickly get used to, and you cease to notice them, although the feeling appears from time to time, we obviously somewhere well above sea level. Except for the silhouettes of the mountains on the horizon, the road leads to the Pritosam through flat grain fields, if we, for example, in the Kaluga region. That's all the more surprising in a place off the road, kilometer drive through the field, stop in and see this grove.
32. To see a huge canyon with gigantic stone walls, picturesque River at the bottom and the vast expanses of taiga on the opposite bank. There seemed a different world, and the scorching sun-drenched field a hundred meters back if it was not:
33. In fact, there are only two views - along the canyon and on the opposite shore. But I want to stay here a little longer, to sit on the precipice, to breathe the fragrant air. you can go down and down if you wish, but it is already require some effort. Popular place, and to the credit of local tourists, garbage here quite a bit. Then silence and some their own, especially:
34. If all declared and ready availability of all-season look something Zyuratkul still requires some work and effort, in a national park in terms of customer Taganay went on. Yes, here it is possible to go into the campaign with tents for a few days, but there is entertainment for ordinary tourists. Organized literally in the last couple of years, observation deck, "Black Rock" allows you to survey the protected Ural beauty for everyone.
35. The main entrance to the Taganay located on the outskirts of a large city Chrysostom, which in itself makes it convenient to visit the reserve. A couple of hours by train from Chelyabinsk, a little more than a day from Moscow - and you can almost from scratch in the mountain station. Zlatoust tourists thanks to abound, although the city itself, frankly, this does not have.
36. The central manor Taganay is not some rusty cordon where unshaven man in a camouflage suit writes in notebook and you will take a hundred rubles for the entrance. This is a gallery of pretty high quality, and sometimes overtly expensive and exclusive souvenirs. Behind the counter - young pretty girl working on all standards of modern service.
37. In general, in contrast with Zyuratkul there is clearly seen the desire of local authorities to make a beautiful and high quality, as the "decadent West." Do not even say that here, they say, money can do. On Zyuratkul also loot cut only so, but in a simple way, in the delivery of housing in the territory of considerable prices. Here, on the contrary, to spend the night in the reserve can only be in a very lowly conditions, but without the extra costs. But the comfort and service at an altitude in the details.
38. The beauty of "Black Rock" is that it is possible to flush away by car. Through the territory of nat. Park in the village of MMK conducts public road grader. It is for her and have to overcome about 10 kilometers from the main entrance.
39. The "Black Rock" organized parking, and exactly the same pavilion with souvenirs and information, only smaller in size. Before the observation deck from here remains kilometer walk along a forest trail. At the very beginning it built but not put into effect some cottages - not the guest, not the mangalnye area want to equip.
40. Throughout the trail installed posters with information about the nature of nat. parka. And, to the credit of their authors, not written by the dry bureaucratic language, such as "Plants of the red book - so that the animals - as something", and with a twinkle, humor, attempts to flirt with the visitor.
41. Direct observation is organized into three areas with short ladders. Climb is not difficult. On the set panorama photo that you see with the signature of the individual objects themselves venues. Conveniently. Everything at a glance. The need to march deeper into the park for a significant part of the public disappears. And for some categories (the elderly, families with young children), this place provides a fundamental opportunity to look at the nature reserve. Of course, some local and babies hiking with overnight walk, but that's, I'm sorry, just not for everyone. And then - I come quietly, walked, looked left. nat administration. Park - respect.
42. Lake Turgoyak probably - the most poppin and fly-by tourists in the Chelyabinsk region. But damn it, how much it deserved. I have been in many popular tourist spots, and often there is a thought: "Yes, if there were not all these people, then it would be great." Turgoyak - one of the few (if not the first) places where even a thrill to be in a crowd of people.
43. Turgoyak is, in fact, on the northern outskirts of the city of Miass. Residential development, fortunately, comes ashore only in one small place where logically arranged and the most popular destinations and clogged.
44. For the rest Turgoyak perimeter is surrounded by hills and forests, which are scattered numerous recreation centers and sanatoriums.
45. Water Turgoyak is considered the second most transparent in Russia, and indeed close to the characteristics of Lake Baikal. In this photo, I stand about knee-deep in the water, but because of the transparency is difficult to estimate the depth:
46. Water is then, of course, not particularly warm, but not as gelid as in Zyuratkul. You can swim well:
47. Unfortunately, such a number of travelers can not harm the lake. Moreover, here as part of a federal program that is planned to organize a tourism cluster. I do not argue, tourism in the Urals to develop a must, but why on Turgoyak where and so an apple fall nowhere?
48. The last lake that we visited in the Urals - Bath (it is Jakty-kul). It is already in Bashkiria, but on the border with the Chelyabinsk region, about Magnitogorsk. It is considered the deepest in the country.
49. The proximity of Magnitogorsk effect: relax here in the main inhabitants of this particular city, and the main resort on the shore, Jubilee, belongs Magnitogorsk Metallurgical Combine (MMK). Here it must be said that in order to fully enjoy the views of the bath, will have to go to the territory of the sanatorium, for the rest of the coastline is not landscaped and looks rather unattractive due to the houses and private buildings. View here can quite legally - just at the entrance you have to pay something around 200 rubles.
50. Water in the sauna all the same clear and quite warm, but we bathe there has not climbed. Like the temperature on that day was higher than 20, but from somewhere came the cold biting wind. Great Steppe is quite close ...
51. The CMI also belongs to the ski resort in the neighboring village. And though there hyped up Abzakovo half an hour, this is also very popular. Probably, employees combine relaxation here is provided at a discount. Ski lifts in fair condition. Cabs do not look perfectly new, but obviously not from the Soviet era remain.
52. Top views over Bath and the two neighboring lakes - Sabakty and Karabalykty. At the top of the biting cold wind that caught us at the lake, it has become even more disgusting. Not only he, but also his eyes appeared landscapes reminiscent of the proximity of the steppe of the Urals - the abundance of gray and sand tones, lack of taiga forests on the slopes, as it was in the mining and metallurgical parts, some few hundred kilometers to the north.
53. Local Bashkirs, with whom we talked, complained about the abandonment of this place. MMK monitors only its objects - sanatorium and ski resorts, and the local municipality in the state of the village like a spat that affects its appearance. I suppose that it is a deliberate pressure to survive from the territory of the Republic of Belarus MMK. In a vacuum, of course, someone has to appear. And as I said our interlocutors, the niche occupied Uzbeks. According to them, they filled the entire village, make pilaf and do not give work Bashkirs. In fairness, right at the entrance to the resort we ran into a point with a fairly mediocre in appearance pilaf. It turns out that the Bashkirs speak the truth ...
As you can see, a beautiful natural place full of only one of the Chelyabinsk region. Bashkiria we touched just barely. Although there were plans to study and its detail, but by the end of the second week of the rocks, rivers, and panoramic views, oddly enough, is also beginning to tire. natural inspection goes well with the cities, in order to dilute the scenery and beauty of man-made comfort. In this respect, to offer the Urals? Of course, everyone is well aware that this is not Switzerland. But its color and its interesting places, no doubt, is here. That's on them and hit the next time, starting with perhaps the most extraordinary local city - Satka, around half of which filmed the photos of this post.