"I used to see the fjords ..." I said an employee of the municipal tourist center. "You see, I came to Bergen for two and a half days, and now heard the sound about the fact that you have here nepodlaёku fjords. But where are they, I do not really know." "We have a tour - just what you want. Uses very popular - called 'Norway in a Nutshell'. If you want I will reserve the tickets right here? " So, for a sheer trifle somewhere $ 160, I went galloping Norway.
In general, to start confess: what I knew fjord very vague. Knew about it such bays, long and zagogulistye, with high banks, they are in Norway, there are anywhere else. Here in New Zealand, where they are called "sound" s. But since I went to look, I had little porazuznat ...
Fjords are formed by glaciers over the millennia. The glacier is constantly "slides" down from the mountains, and at the same scraped existing beneath the valley, adding to their depth. The result is a very deep winding gorge with steep walls, and when the glaciers are melting and the sea level rises, these gorges are converted into bays. The longest fjord in the world is in Greenland, but the second longest - it Sognefjord in Norway, just north Bergen. If you look at the west coast of the country on the map, it all cut up these fjords, and Bergen itself is right in the middle, because that is the center of the fjord and tourism. The tour Norway in a Nutshell, and the tour is difficult to call - is simply a set of tickets for different transportation between a very beautiful place. The main part of this - a boat that wheeling tourists Nærøyfjord (a member in the list of UNESCO World Heritage Site) and a piece of Sognefjord (the one that is the second in the world for length). In addition to the boat, carry tourists on the bus and the different trains. It occupies all this somewhere ten o'clock if leave and return to Bergen. More variants are possible with Oslo (eg started in Oslo, graduated from Bergen, and vice versa), but they last longer over time.
Early in the morning sleepy I come to the station. Bergen Station is not particularly impressive dimensions - it will not Shibuya. Before boarding the train, always have to go to the railway workers and ask which side is beautiful. I recognize that at departure from Bergen definitely have to sit on the left, there are all picturesque. By the way the train does not travel, it just goes to Oslo. True, about half the passengers on this morning flight - which sells tourists visit Norway in a Nutshell. Normal people so early in Oslo do not like to travel.
First ride along some of the fjord. Outside the window - the water surface, mountains, and herbs. Every couple of minutes drive through the tunnel. Because of this it is difficult to take pictures of the train: just aim, vushshshsh! and the darkness outside the window.
On the beach at the water's edge across the Scandinavian neat houses. I imagine how all the furniture inside is probably from Ikea. I think this is any problem.
We come to the town of Voss. Then half of the train is unloaded and take a bus. Buses may be several, depending of type on how many tickets sold.
Going further, is now on the roads. Outside the window of the bus, too mountains. Their tops in the snow.
We pass a waterfall. The driver declares its name, which it is impossible to remember. But a beautiful waterfall.
Bus calls in gradually higher and higher, until we find ourselves among a very beautiful mountains. Their slopes are somehow-cool caricature.
"Here in the valley there is the village of Gudvangen where we're going," declares the driver. I notice that the valley between the mountains, next to the river, there is a road.
"Here the slope of 18 degrees," says the driver, making it clear that it very much. "From September to April, it is closed for the winter." The road is very wagging. We go down slowly, almost stopping at every turn. Around beauty.
Going down and coming to this very Gudvangen we planted. Here the valley between the mountains beneath the sea - and begins Nærøyfjord. Tourists are allocated forty minutes out to perefotografirovat all around and stock up at the local gift shop (not necessarily in that order). Many skillfully wielded selfifikatorami, others (such as me) ask for help to his comrades.
In Gudvangen we are waiting for "boat" - a rather big ferry capable of carrying several buses.
The captain of our schooner. You look at him and immediately understandable - seasoned sea wolf who has through his veins instead of blood flowing salt water.
Ochalivaem. Scenic Gundvagen remains astern.
On the deck is a kind of glass greenhouse. All tourists initially hide it, afraid to go outside: kind of like rain drizzles, and sometimes it even replaced by hail.
But soon the desire to be photographed against the backdrop of beauty takes over and people are shy, a few people get out into the air.
Selfifikator - a pledge of successful sebyashki!
In the narrow flat pieces of coast on both sides of the fjord sometimes crowded village. Sailing past them, Captain include ads - voices in different languages talk about these zhivoposnye settlements, "the left we are passing Novogadyukino village, with its stone church, built in the thirteenth century. The villagers are known for their longevity." The format is always the same: the name of the village, the description of the church and a curious fact.
These ads come in a dozen different languages, which takes a few minutes. By the time the game version in Russian, the village has been left far behind, and a great church can be seen only with binoculars.
Bottleneck fjord - the most spectacular. Here you can see how high and rise up vertically on both sides of cliffs. The height of these mountains more than a kilometer in some places.
Lest we think that we ride on some left the fjord for suckers, on the schooner's a sign that notifies us that it Nærøyfjord - truly the best of the fjords of Norway. He is the way, and is considered to be the narrowest. (Did I mention that it is listed in UNESCO World Heritage List? ..)
Really very nice. At half way we go swimming, "arrow", where Nærøyfjord poured into one of the branches of the Sognefjord. Then sail on it.
Fabled Lost villages continue to swim past.
Announce that here in this - the smallest church in Europe. Within just one room, which accommodates only forty people. Frankly, I do not seem so small. Hard to believe that in Europe there is less churches.
Toward the end of the voyage for us start flying seagull. I serve other tourists example - can feed the seagulls from the deck. One Asian girl trying to simultaneously feed a seagull cookies and take a picture of her on the phone. Both get enough mediocre.
Swim up. Our port of destination - a town with a beautiful name Flåm, or in Russian, Flom. This town is famous because it is located at the end of the Sognefjord. And yet the fact that here in the mountains leads travel Flåm Railway - on it is just my next ticket. Before mooring the nose of the ferry ride up to allow vehicles to move out.
The offshore part of the tour is finished. Here it is, our beauty from the shore! Elegant yacht, is not it? ..
It turns out my ticket on the next train did not, and in the second, so that in Flåm there are a couple of hours. Trains on the Flåm w / d go like mountain buses.
I asked at the station where you can go as long as I wait for the train, and I Recommend hour and a half route to the waterfall. They said, "Arise, and from there you can see the fjord and the entire valley!" I had to be dragged. Rose - really beautiful. It is seen as the fjord ends and continues overland to a valley between the mountains. At the bottom of the valley of the river meanders - it is on the basis of its millennium ago glaciers scraped the twig Song Fjord. But these few scattered houses - this is Flom.
So I kind of liked it, I decided to shoot a panorama-photosphere ... It can pull the mouse around and up and down. Here and waterfall and the fjord and the mountains and the valley. Even my clothes were in the frame ...
Well, I zapanoramil, and you can walk back to the station. Just had my train. "Which side is beautiful?" - All beautiful, but more beautiful than the right, they say. In fact, a beautiful box where you can open up, or come through the dirty glass pictures. Let's go!
The train goes up the valley, the road winds along a small river. We pass the lovely small towns. The loudspeaker in the car announces their name, paying attention to what their church.
Actually Flåm Railway consists of only one track. It splits it in only one place on all its length, just so as to allow trains to pass each other. Of course, came the first train to wait until suitable counter. And so it travels with the lovely red composition with photos early.
We rise above the temperature drops. We're really in the mountains. Outside, sometimes flashing a building that would be very fit in the scenery of the film "Grand Budapest."
Stop next to another waterfall - here you can go to take pictures. On a small patch of the same faces that were on the bus and boat.
The car is written, that the railway is also not for suckers. The inscription in spirit similar to the ship's name plate about the dignity of the fjord.
We go further. Climbing higher and higher, we drive into the zone of frost. Here, not only snow but also a very active fells from the sky.
Outside the window of the train everything is white. Snowdrifts merge with prolonged whitish clouds sky.
See how tall snowdrifts! And one birch stick. Disguise, merge with the landscape.
We arrived at Myrdal station. Total Flåm w / d in length of 20km, and this distance is gaining 863 meters in height. Around town Myrdal even something special no - there's only station and the hotel. The station is used for transplantation in the passenger trains running between Oslo and Bergen. Backpackers transplanted here. Yes, in principle, all transplanted here.
And I moved. The train carries me back to Bergen. Outside, snow sweeps, and heat in a train.
That's all. He made a circle around the beautiful. In a nutshell, I really enjoyed it. Generally, if there is enough time, all recommened not be doing this circle one day, and spend the night in one of the intermediate stops to fully enjoy the local nature. Then everywhere is full of hiking trails on which to walk, and there are hotels where you can stay overnight.