A story about one of the most picturesque cities in Brazil - Salvador La Bahia.
Our plane was flying over the Atlantic Ocean. Was approaching the end of our flight from the Old to the New World. And on the horizon for us at the blue water of the ocean seemed to Earth! Here it is, the South American continent, which had so long dreamed of. More somewhere hour plane flew over the Brazilian fields and deserts, and then began to decline. However, the bottom was still delayed by clouds. Decreased in the thickness of the clouds plane for a long time, and when emerged from below, it appears that we are already quite low. For porthole swept interchange with the road, highway, and then some kind of ominous quarters. "Perhaps it is those favelas that are so afraid of coming to Brazil," I thought. Or maybe not - Dunno what looks like here. However, outside of heavy rain poured down clearly. Meanwhile, the aircraft has flown up to the runway and took off again ... suddenly skyward. For some reason he could not sit down and went to the second round. "It's rainy" - said the pilot. We did a loop over the sea, went back to land. Again isolation, road, highway, favela. At the second attempt, we still got. Meanwhile, rain mercilessly lashed by porthole. I'm still hoping that it will end at the time of our exit from the airport .. The border guards with a view pofigisticheski slapped us in the passport stamps and migratsionki and here we are in Brazil! At the airport, guests of the country meets this poster here:
We must now quickly go to the city and the night and day, until it got dark. After all, the night is there so bad. We are trying to contact the invited us to his Brazilian Diego. He acted very wisely threw us only an 8-digit number. And as for him to call? Looked in Lonely Planet, the code Brazil - 55. Tried to send SMS to number with this code - did not work. Maybe there is wrong information? At one of the stalls hanging eight-taxi number and code in brackets 71. Come on, try it! Too bad luck (later revealed that 71 - Salvador code. To send sms, should dial 5571 before the number). Okay, figs with him, come to the center, ask someone to phone call. I have 10 dollars in the exchanger and go to the bus. Damn, it was already dark, but still only 5 pm. Here they are, tropical rain .. And it's not subside. Came the bus going to the center - Praça da Sé. Going into it, I look out the window and try to understand what is there is Brazil? It is the same as Europe, or completely different? Or as Asia? In the darkness, the facades of houses it is quite difficult to determine, especially because of their obscure shroud of heavy rain.
The rain continues to pour in buckets. Through wet glass is clear that we were going along the promenade along the shore of the ocean. Bus rides for a long time. Somewhere road is clearly not designed for such a mass of water and the machine did not go, and go with the half-wheel in the water. Damn, where we are ?? And we'll be there in the middle of doing, how to search vpisyvatelya, we do not even know his address? Closer to the center in some areas the water was almost up to his waist, she was zaplёskivalas on the bottom step of the bus. Things go on and we'll start to sink .. I unfortunately, forgotten-protective jacket in Europe .. We arrived at the Pratzen da Sé. I think it might cost to go before - there were decent quarters, McDonald's, we could go out to the Internet. And then quite some horror. Deserted streets, tightly closed shop, shops. Feel yourself in gopnicheskom district center at 9 pm. Some rare types of footy on the sides in the square. At the other end da Sé could see some kind of terminal, which works around some tent, we immediately motanulis there. It turned out - there is a lift city. We bought a tent in the water and began to beg the guard tent phone to call our friend. The guard did not deny us our request, and we caught up yet with Diego, he explained to us by a security guard where to go - Bonfim area.
Back down the elevator, there is a bus stop. They say everything in Portuguese. It's not as bad as the first time Farsi or Arabic, yet European language, and around Latin. Rather motley population here - there are people of European appearance, as mulattos and negros. In general, it is difficult to understand the habit that as a yes. But we are, above all, now get to the night and day and finally vymoknut.
A little about the device Salvador. He washed by the sea on three sides (one might say almost four). Located on a promontory and the coastline here makes a few kinks. Therefore, in a lot of beaches, not all of which, however, are equally good for swimming.
Salvador generally beautiful city. Here the most beautiful old city among all Brazilian cities. Famous quarter Pelourinho
The Centre is divided into two parts - upper and lower. At the top and is vyshepredstavlennaya beauty. At the bottom of the business district, as well as the marina and bay.
However, at the bottom of crumbling buildings too dofiga
Between the two parts is easiest to move the elevator. Worth 0.15 rial, or 2 rubles.
Just above the north is also a cable car for the same price, but it is not so popular, because connects the non-key points
The old part is not so big. Right next to the Pratzen da Sé it ends and already there are ugly high-rise buildings
In general, I must say, Salvador - strongly b.u.shny and opsharpanny city. Such buildings is complete in both parts
Everywhere you can buy a coconut with coconut juice. Price question - 1-2 rial ($ 0.5-1).
Even a telephone booth in the form of coconut
The city is still a very difficult and controversial. We Salvador left quite contradictory impressions. Firstly, it is here that we began Brazil, and for a long time, she was associated with it. However, it is still different from the rest of the country, at least from the southern part. There's more colorful characters, more black population and the associated culture.
Often comes across African fast food - Acarajé.
But also more messy Salvador and more dangerous. The first creates a certain atmosphere of discomfort while in town. As for the second - our fears, described at the beginning of the story in general that were quite justified. Salvador is considered one of the most criminal cities. I think that now it can be even more dangerous than the Rio.
By the way, favela near the railway station Calçado
The central quarter run hither crowd of police, which make the situation there more or less safe. However, little svernesh not there, the consequences can not be very pleasant. Therefore, in Salvador, it is desirable to avoid visits unfrequented streets. Also dangerous walks in the evening and riding on a bus with a lot of baggage. In general, I must say that even in the CFR atmosphere is far less intense than here (although maybe we just at that time more or less accustomed to the country).
By the way, our friend - Diego.
Diego - very cheerful and friendly companion. However, it has real Brazilian character. This means that it is often difficult to shake the real case. For instance, we decided to go for a walk to the center. Say to him: "Well, let's go?" .. He: "Yes, now go 5 minutes." 5 minutes and certainly stretch for an hour or two.
But he told us a lot of interesting things about some local realities Salvador.
The view from the window of one of his houses, Ribeira district. On the other side of the bay - favela.
His dad's live funny bug
He lives in a fairly old area with one-storey buildings.
This is not a favela, although according to some reviews, there is also somewhat dangerous. Well, the audience is pretty simple lives.
Although the day you can walk quietly, and in the evening is better to be careful. There are many beautiful buildings
As well as an old church Bonfim
But in general, Salvador, the city is very huge, there lived a few million inhabitants. And much of it built up skyscrapers.
After a one-storey gouging Bonfima and the historic center, I really wanted to look at these areas with decent skyscrapers. It is only later on they change ends, and then they seemed Salvador something so beautiful and at the same time, several alien. Construction area Diego much better consistent with the spirit of the neighborhood.
Somehow not even very seemed like in these houses people live? Are there modern interiors, baths and toilets? But the picture becomes more familiar located next to a small favela.
Skyscrapers occupy most of the area of the city. In particular, many of them near the bus station, as well as south of the center near the waterfront of Barra. On the waterfront, we decided to go.
It is another fort. By the way, at this point the coastline makes the angle and the fort thus obtained on the hateful cape.
Valiant Brazilian police, to protect society from any criminal elements
By the way, the last day again was pouring dozhdische and we broke another umbrella. Oh, those Chinese umbrellas. But the good they are sold at every step.
Here is neboskrёbokvartaly
In a big city of transport there are only buses. Metro is built slowly, and even when it is built, meaning there will not be too much. No dedicated lanes, buses idling in traffic jams on a par with everyone. We once went from the center to the bus station for 2.5 hours. Were more than riding. In the end no longer stand the stand, walked a few hundred meters left foot.
And sometimes not even buses. During our stay they went on strike and did not come on line. Here's how you want, and live in a big city without traffic.
After that, we realized that not sustain more Salvador and rushed to sail to the capital of the country - Brasilia.
That's what our experience was a first acquaintance with the country and the continent.