Where in America wilderness? The teenager will tell us that where there is no vayf. Tourist - where there are no other tourists, motorists - where there are no gas stations, traveler - where to long and hard to get. For me, the wilderness - a place where no one wants to get, at least this time of year.
In Alaska everything within a hundred kilometers of Anchorage - a remote province, and further gluhomanskaya wilderness. Modest villages along the road, so lonely dwelling in the forest jungle, where he lives a harsh northern people. Well lives, gradually ruin oneself by drink. Only the wilderness and this is not the blind, because if there is a road, then some no, but a civilization. But when there is no way ...
along the rivers and the ocean coast of Alaska scattered settlements and individual farms Aboriginal and come in large numbers, where access to only one - in the air. Why do people live, we have yet to figure out, but it looks like and how they feel themselves at the same time, we decided to try for yourself by agreeing to look at one of these farms on the island of Kodiak.
For total immersion, it was decided to separate: first meal I Alla comes two weeks later, a week later I'm leaving, and it remains for another month.
1. After repeated transfer of flights due to bad weather on the island and many hours Mayat at the airport, I finally get in the plane. Winter this year was a success.
2. I doubt that the year-old brother and their attendants share my enthusiasm, but they are the people familiar. The peasants and even deftly handled gracefully aircraft antifreeze.
3. Total of 250 miles (400 km) from Anchorage to the south, and a completely different weather. This is the airport company "Andrey Airlines", which among others like her bear caters to all corners of the island.
4. Former school bus is calling to see the bears, fishing and rafting.
5. Fleet berthed. In summer, the Eagles will work tirelessly - Americans love to walk in untouched places.
6. It turns out that all my luggage, not just a suitcase. The boxes - products from the store, which must be ordered in advance.
7. After things are weighed and the passenger with a camera. Che-lot.
8. Boys, meanwhile, prepare the plane for the next flight.
9. Shoe required because of low tide at some stations it is impossible to dock to the pier, we have to walk on water.
10. Upload, tagged along and told me where the emergency exits, lifejacket, transceiver and a packet of breakfast, flew.
11. I, of course, notable Upchuck and forced to look straight ahead at the horizon, but from time to time glances under the wing.
12. Kodiak Island is dotted with mountains, ridges whose drivers try not to fly. Instead, they fly through the valleys as the corridors. The weather conditions are evaluated by eye "so there seems to go clear."
13. At this time I was lucky: the heavy aircraft flies smoothly, and the weather is calm. Fly with pleasure.
14. At the bottom of the ocean bays, almost every stand canning factories, tourist centers, hunting camps and a separate cottages. Now, however, all razehalis on winter vacation.
15. And here is my Amook Bay, I had learned more on the map. There, right behind the island, I'm going to live the next three weeks.
16. After that, everything was fast: sat, unloaded, the hosts showed me what was going on, download and flew away. In Las Vegas, then Florida, and on a yacht in the Bahamas, to bask.
17. The first sound after the verse away roar of the aircraft, was a noisy exhalation whale from somewhere to the left. Then fell the atmosphere of the bay, I'll listen to many of the evening: the lapping of waves, the distant cry of gulls, claps the wings to take off from the water ducks and babbling brook. All alone.
18. Came guests. Absolutely not afraid of people, despite the fact that their adult relatives regularly shoot hunters.
19. But they have now the problem - hunger. Snow on the mountains drove all the livestock down to the water. But here, nothing special profit. Shortly before my arrival two deer came into camp, crawled under one of the houses and there fell asleep forever.
20. With me on the farm were two Mike Farley, Elsie and Olive. Last sleeps day and night, and this is constantly roam the streets, sometimes not even coming back at night. I love these cats.
21. And there came a measured, unusually quiet, solitary life. While everyone has discovered and understood around until accustomed to the rustling and glow in the dark eyes of deer last week. Every evening, I saw through the window something like this picture.
22. A week later came the sound, which does not happen here. Similarly, he stepped out from behind the mountain and goes to the water: this is it, this is it, kodiaksky postman!
23. Neighbor Jim was right there, he gets his mail. On the plane a couple of peasants, hunters, are thrown into a kind of a wilderness.
24. All of Alaska in this emblem.
25. Unload, chatted for five minutes and pushed my boat, walked on the runway.
26. That's the same as a week stayed alone, and instinctively look after "Oh, people fly ..."
27. And I'm going back to their leisurely affairs at the base.
28. And to his reindeer.
29. They are really a lot, go to the crowds on the beach, there is something to chew on are after low tide.
30. I also should be prepared for the arrival of Alla, in particular, to cut firewood. The house has a gas stove, but it is not interesting, and a fireplace - very much so. Boat rescued, now give her loads wood from the opposite bank.
31. And one week behind, again the distant hum of the aircraft, and now he was taxiing to the dock.
32. And because he has a babe. After two weeks of his own unshaven hari in the mirror, a girl's face - a balm for the eyes.
33. With a Alla brings all sorts of gifts, including winter.
34. At the joint a week I planned the whole program, but is now starting to wonder what the weather it will support.
35. One day more or less successful, so that we could just sail away from the shore and look at the part of the base.
36. In 1956, a young man arrived at the Park Muncie Bay Amook and became one of the first in Alaska, a professional guide for tourists, photographers and hunters.
37. In the same year was born his son Mike, who buried his father on the hill behind Kemp after twenty-seven years, and he will continue his work.
38. Mike and Robin met at the University of Hawaii, where both studied the favorite realm: she biology of fish and wildlife, he - wildlife management. She also grew up in a small town, so without much persuasion, agreed to share his solitude in a remote corner of Alaska. While privacy is conditional - from spring to late autumn in Camp almost constantly hanging around the same wild nature lovers, fishing and hunting. And every winter munsu take leave and go to his home state or Robin, Kansas, or somewhere in warmer climes.
39. They stop guests in a rather cozy huts with private facilities and some good views.
40. Pleasure is not cheap - $ 2,500 per person, not including tickets and permission for fishing and hunting.
41. Power on, Robin entertain guests in their dining room. The walls are hung with gifts from the guests and their photos with their exploits. In the corner of that same stove that runs on a special fuel (something between a diesel fuel, kerosene and oil).
42. Kitchen. The house gradually overgrown porches and everything is dipped in the middle and squinted over the years.
43. Shelves and cabinets crammed with canned goods, boxes and packaging - delivery by plane is not cheap, so they are bought infrequently, but thoroughly.
44. As often happens in the homes of the elderly, all traces of the past grandeur, gradually turning into a decline. In the center - Special bags for mail.
45. On every wall and in every corner of the booty, including animals, which have since been put in the Red Book. By the way, thanks to a carefully controlled hunting, the population of bears on Kodiak today the greatest of all time.
46. And there is a hunt with nothing. From the powerful "vozdushki" and multiply-charged "melkashki" to shotgun, shotguns and rifles of various calibers. Even musket there, but I did not know how to charge it, so I decided not to touch. Well, guns of all kinds, a favorite weapon of American hunters.
47. This year, due to the unusually cold winter peremerzla pipes that fed water from the creek. I had to remember the Soviet childhood fun.
48. Go into the street, to show Alla its possession for the next month and how to cope with them. Dohlenkih pump taking water from a hole in the ice stream (behind one of the houses for the guests).
49. Electricity take in the generator, and it accurately how many are on the boardwalk. Junk, mainly consisting of drums for fuel, an eyesore and annoying all the same wildlife around, it would be possible to live and accurate. But, as has been said, the elderly gradually degrade and lose interest in the beauty, order and life in general.
50. At least the equipment updated and reliable. Dizelek Isuzu works flawlessly, too, new batteries.
51. In the left flank diesel fuel, in the right oil for the heater. Messed up, stay out of water in a dark, cold house.
52. Although it was me, the heat will be exactly, is vain, I almost broke my finger (now still hurts), pulled back, got in the head with a huge branch and tore his elbows until sawed, shipped, dragged and chopping wood? Yes, I have rukozhop one comes to that aloud force myself not to hurry, not blunt, be cautious. Sometimes himself to listen.
53. What else is there to eat? Lodge on the right home for butchering.
54. Inside the hunters classics: is a severe need, bearded, smelly peasant order and comfort?
55. Despite the overall decline, the owners, and can have their children are not abandoned their attempts to return to the previous level base. House, there's a new built. Maybe even breathe here a second life.
56. Go to the security measures. Bear in idea, it is now asleep, but I saw the pictures in the house bears, walking in the snow around the house. And a neighbor reported seeing traces at. So, just in case, carry out basic training with a rifle shooting stand. Calibre then bearish, .375. Giving can be tough.
57. The return was even tougher than expected Alla. The snow slid off the roof by the shock wave.
58. Having made a couple of shots and nearly severing his shoulder, Alla decided to move to a more practical tool - pistol. What Allah has not considered that it keeps Ruger .454 Tolkat, favorite weapons hunters in Alaska, one of the most powerful revolver in the world designed specifically for the protection of the local bears. His powerful cartridge caliber forty-five, and the return will now have a caliber .500.
59. Ahem, ahem ... Next quick shot can be done by gulls.
60. palnuv a few more times, and the received light concussion and nearly dislocating itself brush on both hands, Alla decided that the bears can coexist without violence, then went to rehab.
61. Well then, and I until the last lumps, worse elbows will be gone.
62. What else? Here there is a boat and a fishing rod, you can go fishing. It is only necessary to bear in mind that it is the ocean, which means that there are significant tides. Now the tide, the bridge can not pass without shoe covers.
63. But the tide, and this is just a process, the water's edge is just in the middle between the dock and the boat. It should be borne in mind, because all over the bay appear the rocks and shoals, on which you can pokotsat screw boat.
64. That tide in the place where the creek flows.
65. But the middle tide. The first time I brought a batch of firewood on the boat and unloaded them on the left bank of the higher. But I thought higher, because after a few hours of hemp swam across the little bay. There you can and lose a boat, if not properly bind.
66. Tomorrow I fly away, and Allah will remain alone with this world. Exciting, yes.
67. All you need to be able to do the most: water and store, and fuel tanks on the desired pour and fill trucks.
68. The first attempt marine ship management showed complete readiness for any sea adventure.
69. Back to back like a real captain, famously moored, sure maritime hub prinaytovuet boat line to the end of a running and sends a boat to a depth (not to beat on the dock). All right, I'm calm, I can be put off.
70. On the following day with the mail plane I depart from Amook Bay. Ala is the next four weeks itself.
71. And then was hell. We had to make several stops, due to the weather Turbulence was horrible, we some times abruptly unfolded, because it would not let the clouds in the valley, and all my anti-seasick medicine is held on the first ten minutes, and then together with the foresight to eat a banana safely returned to the the same way, how to use. (Banana experienced sailor advised, they say, helps with strong pitching. I asked how, he replied that he did not vomit so disgusted with banana flavor :)